If there a demi-god in Barolo today, or should we say La Morra, it is Roberto Voerzio. His path to success has been based on what are considered to be the lowest yields of fruit in the Barolo zone. Production is very limited and the winery makes less than 4000 cases per vintage, which equals less than one bottle per vine. We encountered a unique oddity during a recent visit to his cellars in La Morra. He produces two of his five Barolos and one Barbera in magnum format only. Why? Roberto told us, “This is the best environment for a wine to condition.” He is recognized as the main proponent of the Barolisti who are making new, modern styled Barolo that is ready to drink within 4 to 5 years from the vintage. This is an Italian cult winery at its finest. Some particulars of the Voerzio winery are low production and very little wine for our, or any, market and high high scores with all wine publications and journalists. He’s a modernist to the extent that he fashions his wine away from the traditional tannic Barolo style. His wines show ripeness and he uses new barrels. The wines are not over-extracted and oaky. There is an eager market for Barolo, and good Barolos are never inexpensive so unsurprisingly Voerzio’s top wines are trophy items.