The wine producing region of Friuli lies in the north eastern Italian province of Friuli Venezia Giulia (FVG). This area shares a border and a turbulent history with Slovenia. Although not so well known, it is the third most important of Italy's wine producing regions, after Piedmont and Tuscany.
Wine making has been chronicled in Friuli since Roman times although the modern day
winemaking industry really got started here in the 1960's with the introduction of German winemaking techniques and temperature controlled fermentation. These two innovations produced white wines of exceptional quality, probably Italy's finest which put Friuli firmly on the international wine map. The Friuli wine scene remains somewhat confusing to the uninitiated, due to the large number of sub zones and the number of grape varieties grown here. This is what makes Friuli unique but is also its Achilles heel- too many varietals being produced on many small vineyards. In this way it resembles Burgundy; small producers growing a range of grape varieties on tiny parcels of land.
One could wax long and lyrical on the wines of Friuli, and some of the best white wines
in Italy are certainly produced here. This area has long been internationally acclaimed for its fragrant, elegant white wines, more recently however, the reputation of red varietals and blends has been catching up. What really distinguishes Friuli from the rest of Italy is the emphasis on quality and its quirky interest in many indigenous grape varieties, virtually unheard of in other regions. To give you an idea at the end of the 19th Century there were at least 150 grape varieties grown here. Viticulture here is a story of obscure grape varieties lovingly nurtured by dedicated Friuli farmers, despite cultivation difficulties and being completely out of fashion.
There are however, three indigenous grape varieties that are particular to Friuli and form an integral part of its wine history.
Friulano (formerly called Tocai Fruliano) is the most widely planted grape variety in Friuli. This is the white wine you will generally be offered whether it be, in a rustic frasca – the place the locals go for a glass of wine, or in an elegant restaurant. Tocai is usually drunk young when it is light coloured, floral with a slight hint of almonds, perfect as an aperitif. It also has the capacity to age making wines of greater character and depth.
Schioppettino, also known as Ribolla Nera is one of most interesting red varietals of the Friuli wine world. . This indigenous grape has a fascinating history, changing from outlaw to rising star in a little over 40 years. It owes its reprieve to the efforts of one man Sig. Paolo Rapuzzi. He founded his vineyard in Cialla in the late 1960's. At that time Schioppettino was virtually extinct less than one hundred vines remained. Two factors lead to its near demise; disease in the form of phylloxera and competition from international varieties such as Cabernet and Merlot. Such was the demand for international varieties that indigenous verities were virtually abandoned. Schioppettino was no longer planted and in fact by law could no longer be planted; it was classified as an illegal varietal. Today it is still planted in very limited quantities around the villages of Prepotto, Albana and Cialla. It certainly is one of the stars of the Friuli wine scene The grapes make a perfumed, medium-bodied red with a hint of spice and the capacity to age. Reminiscent of Syrah.
Picolit probably the best known wine in Friuli. Its name derives from the word piccolo meaning small. Picolit is notoriously difficult to grow, prone to disease and producing small, sparsely-berried bunches. The wine is produced using the passito method. The grapes are picked in mid October and then air dried to concentrate the sugars before being pressed and vinified. Given the small yields and the elaborate vinification process Picolit is produced in very small quantities and commands high prices. It can be used in a variety of white blends but its most classic expression is as a single varietal desert wine. In some ways dessert wine is a misnomer and vino da meditazione is a more accurate description. The wine is not luscious or rich, but rather elegant with a dry finish and delicate floral aromas, particularly acacia. The best examples are dry rather than sweet and do not pair well with desserts, they find their best partners in blue cheese and pate.
